By Oliver Charles Harry - Founder, Ghini Como, Argegno, Lake Como
In short: caring for a silk scarf
- Silk should be washed in cold water (below 30°C) using a pH-neutral detergent; alkaline detergents dissolve the sericin protein coating that gives silk its characteristic handle and sheen
- Machine washing on a delicate cycle is acceptable if the scarf is placed inside a mesh laundry bag and the spin speed does not exceed 400rpm; hand washing remains the lower-risk option
- Silk should never be wrung, twisted, or placed in a tumble dryer; the correct drying method is to lay the scarf flat on a clean dry towel away from direct sunlight and heat sources
- Direct sunlight degrades silk's fibroin protein over time, causing colour fading and fibre weakening; silk should be stored in a cool, dark environment, ideally folded in acid-free tissue inside a breathable cotton bag
- Ironing silk requires a cool iron (silk setting, approximately 110°C) applied to the reverse side of the fabric while the scarf is still slightly damp; a pressing cloth between the iron and the silk provides additional protection against heat damage
How to care for a silk scarf: washing, storage and ironing guide
When you buy your first silk scarf, you will quickly realise that knowing how to care for it is incredibly important. Many of us are used to cheaper and more forgiving materials like polyester, which can be slung in the washing machine or balanced precariously over 'that clothes chair' in the corner of everyone's bedrooms.
If you were to try this with a silk scarf, you will be shocked about how quickly it will deteriorate. However, care for it like the luxury material it is, and you will be rewarded with decades of problem-free use.
Silk is more resilient than its reputation suggests, but its resilience is conditional on understanding how protein fibres respond to heat, alkalinity, and mechanical stress - each of which degrades silk through a different mechanism.
A 14 momme mulberry silk scarf maintained correctly will remain in active use for decades; the same scarf subjected to a hot wash, a tumble dry, or prolonged storage in direct light will lose its handle, colour, and structural integrity within months.
The difference between those two outcomes is not complicated, but it does require knowing precisely what damages silk and why.
Washing a silk scarf: hand washing
Hand washing is the safest method for cleaning a silk scarf and the one that gives the most control over temperature and mechanical stress.
Fill a clean basin with cold or lukewarm water - no warmer than 30°C, since heat causes silk fibres to shrink and lose their characteristic sheen by denaturing the fibroin protein.
Add a small amount of pH-neutral detergent: a product specifically formulated for silk or wool, or a very mild liquid soap with a pH between 6 and 7. Standard laundry detergents are typically alkaline (pH 9 to 11) and will damage silk's sericin coating with repeated use, gradually stripping the fabric of its softness and lustre.
Submerge the scarf and move it gently through the water for two to three minutes. Do not rub, scrub, or wring the fabric - the friction damages the surface of the fibre and the mechanical stress of wringing distorts the weave structure.
To remove excess water, lift the scarf from the basin and press it gently against the side, then lay it flat on a clean dry towel, roll the towel loosely around the scarf, and apply gentle pressure to absorb moisture. Unroll, reshape, and lay flat to dry.
Machine washing silk: what is actually safe
Machine washing silk is possible under specific conditions, and the relevant variables are temperature, spin speed, and containment.
Place the scarf inside a mesh laundry bag before putting it in the machine - this prevents the fabric from snagging on the drum or on other items in the wash. Select a delicate or silk cycle with a water temperature of 30°C or below and a spin speed no higher than 400rpm.
A high spin speed subjects the scarf to the same kind of mechanical distortion as wringing by hand, which loosens the weave structure and can cause permanent deformation, particularly at the hems.
Use a detergent specified for silk or delicate fabrics. Remove the scarf promptly when the cycle ends and lay it flat to dry rather than leaving it in the drum, where the weight of wet silk concentrated in folds can cause creasing that is difficult to remove.
Drying silk correctly
Heat is the primary enemy of silk in the drying stage. A tumble dryer, regardless of setting, exposes silk to temperatures well above the 30°C threshold at which fibre degradation begins, and the tumbling action causes mechanical stress. Do not tumble dry silk under any circumstances.
Lay the scarf flat on a clean dry towel or a drying rack in a well-ventilated room, away from direct sunlight and away from any direct heat source including radiators and heated airers.
Direct sunlight causes photodegradation of silk's fibroin, breaking down the protein structure and causing colour fading that is irreversible. The drying time for a 14 momme silk scarf at room temperature is typically two to four hours.
Do not hang a wet silk scarf on a hanger or line. The weight of the wet fabric concentrated at the hanging points stretches the weave unevenly and can permanently distort the shape.
Ironing a silk scarf
Silk can be ironed safely with attention to three variables: temperature, moisture, and which side of the fabric contacts the iron.
Set the iron to the silk setting, which corresponds to approximately 110°C on most domestic irons. Allow the iron to reach temperature before testing it on a small, inconspicuous area.
Iron the scarf while it is still slightly damp from washing, or use a fine water mist to introduce a small amount of moisture before ironing - damp fibres respond to heat more evenly than completely dry ones, and the result is a smoother finish with less risk of shine marks.
Always iron on the reverse side of the scarf - the side that does not show - to protect the printed surface from direct contact with the iron plate. For additional protection, place a clean cotton pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric.
Never use steam directly on a silk scarf, since the sudden introduction of concentrated hot moisture can cause water marks on the surface that are difficult to remove once dry.
Storing a silk scarf
Long-term storage is where most silk damage occurs outside of washing, because the conditions that feel neutral to a human - a drawer, a wardrobe, indirect window light - can cause cumulative degradation in silk over months.
Fold the scarf loosely in acid-free tissue paper before storing it, which prevents the creases from setting permanently and protects the surface from contact with other fabrics or surfaces.
Store in a breathable cotton bag or a cotton-lined drawer rather than a sealed plastic bag, since sealed environments trap humidity and can encourage the growth of mildew, which damages protein fibres. Keep stored scarves away from direct light and away from cedar balls or mothballs, which contain chemicals that can stain or degrade silk over extended periods.
If a scarf has been worn but does not need washing, hang it in open air for one to two hours before folding and storing, which allows body moisture to dissipate and prevents the formation of odour-retaining damp spots in the fabric.
Oliver Charles Harry is the founder and creative director of Ghini Como, a luxury silk scarf brand based in Como, Italy. He lives in Argegno on the western shore of Lake Como.
