By Oliver Harry - Founder and Creative Director of Ghini Como, a silk scarf brand based in Argegno, Lake Como
Quick facts: silk scarf in hair
- A silk twilly at 5cm wide requires no folding before use in hair, producing a narrower, more precise result than a folded square scarf in every hair position
- Silk twill holds knots and bows in hair more securely than satin-weave alternatives because the diagonal rib structure creates friction between fabric layers, preventing the scarf from loosening through the day
- The three primary hair positions for a silk scarf are the ponytail (at the base), the headband (ear to ear), and the half-up section, each requiring a different technique and producing a categorically different result
- A 70x70cm square scarf can be used in hair but must be folded from the long edge of the triangle into a band of 4-5cm wide before use, producing a result that is slightly thicker and less precise than an unfolded twilly in the same position
How to wear a silk twilly scarf in your hair: the complete styling guide
The silk scarf has been a hair accessory since at least the 1950s, when Italian and French women began tying square scarves over their hair while driving open-top cars, and the practice has never really stopped.
What has changed is the range of ways it is used and the formats available, particularly the twilly, which did not exist in its current proportions until Hermès popularised the format in the 1990s and which now accounts for a significant proportion of how scarves are actually worn in hair.
Twillies can look incredibly pretty when they are styled correctly, striking a charming balance between ribbons and silk scarves. They are easy to style and give any outfit much needed colour and character.
Here is a list of our favourite ways to style a silk twilly scarf in your hair:
The headband
Take the Laglio twilly unrolled and place it across the top of the head from ear to ear, with the midpoint of the twilly sitting at the front hairline.
Bring both ends to the back of the head, cross them once at the nape, and tie in a flat knot low at the base of the skull rather than at the crown. The knot should sit at the nape, which keeps the silhouette clean from the front and prevents the back from looking bulky.
Because the twilly is already 5cm wide with no folding required, it sits on the head as a precise, narrow band of colour rather than the thicker result you get from folding a square. This is the specific advantage of the twilly in this position and the reason it is worth using the twilly over a square scarf for headband styling whenever possible.
The Laglio Navy in this position reads as a clean horizontal stripe of colour across the head, which works with hair worn down or loosely pulled back at the sides.
The ponytail base tie
Tie the hair in a ponytail as normal using a standard hair tie. Take the Laglio twilly unrolled and drape it over the ponytail at the base so the midpoint sits on top and both ends hang down on either side.
Tie once loosely underneath the ponytail, just tight enough to hold its position, then leave both ends falling freely alongside the hair rather than tying them into a bow.
The two trailing sections of silk move with the ponytail as you move, which is the specific detail that makes this look intentional rather than improvised.
The Laglio Giallo in the ponytail base position reads clearly against both dark and light hair, the yellow sitting with enough contrast to read without competing with whatever else you are wearing.
The half-up section tie
Take a section of hair from the front and sides of the head (the half-up section) and hold it loosely at the back with one hand.
Take the twilly unrolled or the square folded into a 4-5cm band. Tie the band around the gathered section in a bow, leaving both bow loops at approximately 4-5cm and the tails at a similar length.
The bow should sit at the back of the gathered section with the tails visible from the front on either side of the face when the hair falls naturally.
The key detail that separates a half-up tie that works from one that does not is bow placement. The bow needs to sit close to the head rather than standing away from it, which means not pulling the loops out too far when tying.
The low bun accent
For hair worn in a low bun, take the twilly rolled lengthways to approximately 1.5cm wide. Wrap it once around the circumference of the bun, tie the two ends in a bow at the front of the bun, and leave the bow loops and tails at approximately 4-5cm each.
The bow sits on the front face of the bun where it is visible from behind, which is the whole point. Keep the wrap loose enough that the silk shows some movement and does not lie completely flat against the hair, as the slight lift between the silk and the hair surface is what gives the detail its presence.
Oliver Harry is the founder of Ghini Como, a luxury accessories brand whose silk scarves are made entirely within the Province of Como, Italy. He lives in Argegno on the western shore of Lake Como.
