By Oliver Harry - Founder and Creative Director, Ghini Como, Argegno, Lake Como
Quick facts: silk head scarf
- The silk head scarf became a mainstream Western fashion accessory in the 1950s, when Italian and French women began wearing square silk scarves over their hair in open-top cars, a practical origin that produced an aesthetic still in circulation now
- A 70x70cm square silk scarf is the correct size for a full headscarf that covers the hair completely - smaller squares run short at the tying stage, producing ends too brief to knot securely
- Silk does not cause the hair breakage or static that synthetic head scarves produce because its protein fibre structure is chemically compatible with hair keratin and its smooth surface produces minimal friction against the hair cuticle
- The silk twilly at 5cm wide is the correct format for a headband worn across the top of the head, requiring no folding and producing a narrower, more precise band than a folded square in the same position
- Sleeping with a silk head scarf or silk pillowcase is frequently recommended by dermatologists and hair specialists for people with curly, coily, or chemically treated hair, because silk's low friction surface reduces overnight frizz and breakage significantly
Silk head scarf: how to style it for every occasion
The silk head scarf has been a symbol of refined style for generations.
Not only does it look effortlessly elegant, but it evokes images of the Jet Set icons who made it famous - Hepburn, Kelly, Loren. It is also an incredibly simple and affordable accessory to incorporate into your wardrobe, when you know how to style it.
In this guide, you will learn how to style an Italian silk scarf as a head scarf - whether you are about to hop in an Alfa Romeo Spider or just popping to the shops.
Everyday: the headband
The simplest method and the most worn. Take the Laglio twilly unrolled and place it across the top of the head from ear to ear, midpoint at the front hairline.
Bring both ends to the back of the head, cross once at the nape, and tie in a flat knot low at the base of the head. The knot needs to sit at the nape specifically.
A knot at the crown creates bulk that reads from the front and undoes the clean line that makes this method work.
The silk twilly scarf is the correct format here because at 5cm wide it requires no folding and produces a precise, narrow band.
A folded square silk scarf works but produces a slightly thicker result. For the square, fold diagonally into a triangle then fold again from the long edge to a 4 to 5cm band before placing across the head.
Smart casual: the classic headscarf tied at the nape
The method most associated with 1960s Italian and French style, which works as well in 2026 as it did then.
Fold the 70x70cm silk scarf diagonally in half to form a triangle. Place the triangle over the top of the head with the long edge at the forehead and the point hanging at the back. Bring both ends to the nape and tie in a flat knot below the point of the triangle.
The point hangs freely at the back of the neck. The Varenna Cream Polkadot in this position with a white shirt and tailored trousers is a complete and considered outfit with no other accessories required.
Evening: the turban wrap
Start by positioning your silk scarf in a triangle shape. Place the long edge across the forehead with the point of the triangle at the back of the head.
Bring both ends to the front, cross them at the forehead, then take them back to the nape and tie once. Tuck the point of the triangle at the back underneath the wrapped section at the nape to secure it.
The turban is the most formal application and the one that requires the most commitment to the overall outfit. It works when the rest of the look is equally deliberate.
When worn with the Piazza Nera against a cream dress and gold earrings, you have a simple yet achingly elegant outfit.
Travel: the under-chin tie
Once again, begin with your Como silk scarf folded as a triangle. Place over the top of the head with the long edge at the forehead. Bring both ends forward under the chin, cross once, then tie in a flat knot or bow under the chin.
This is the most practical method for keeping the scarf in place in wind or at speed, which is exactly why it originated as a functional solution before becoming a stylistic one.
It has a specific vintage register that suits certain outfits and not others, which is worth knowing before committing to it in a non-convertible context.
Casual: the half-up bow
Take a section of hair from the front and sides and hold it loosely at the back. Take the silk twilly unrolled and tie it around the gathered section in a bow, leaving both bow loops at approximately 4 to 5cm and the tails at a similar length.
The bow should sit flat against the head rather than standing away from it. The difference between a bow that looks effortless and one that does not is almost entirely about how much the loops are pinched when tying - keep them small and flat, not large and open.
Why silk is the only material worth using for a head scarf
The polyester satin head scarves marketed as hair care products do not replicate silk's surface properties regardless of their price.
Polyester generates static that causes frizz and its surface produces friction against the hair cuticle that contributes to breakage over time, particularly at the hairline where the scarf contacts the hair most directly.
Silk's protein fibre is chemically similar to hair keratin, which is why it moves against hair without micro-abrasion. It also does not absorb moisture from the hair the way cotton does, which matters considerably for anyone with dry or colour-treated hair.
Oliver Harry is the founder of Ghini Como, a luxury silk scarf brand that sources its silk from the Province of Como, Italy. He lives in Argegno on the western shore of Lake Como.
