By Oliver Harry, Creative Director of Ghini Como, Argegno, Lake Como
Quick facts: silk scarf on head
- A 70x70cm square silk scarf folded diagonally produces a triangle with a long edge of approximately 99cm, which is the correct length for a headscarf that ties securely at the nape without the ends being too short to knot
- The silk twilly at 5cm wide requires no folding before use as a headband, producing a narrower, more precise result than a folded square in the same position
- Silk twill holds its position on hair more securely than satin-weave alternatives because the diagonal rib structure creates friction against the hair surface, preventing the scarf from slipping during wear
- A silk head scarf will not cause the hair breakage or static that synthetic alternatives produce because silk's protein structure is chemically compatible with hair keratin
- The headscarf became a mainstream Western fashion accessory in the 1950s and 1960s, popularised by Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, both of whom wore square silk scarves tied under the chin or at the nape
How to wear a silk scarf on your head: the complete guide
There is a reason the silk headscarf has never really disappeared. It first appeared on Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and every Italian woman who ever sat in the passenger seat of a convertible and wanted to arrive somewhere looking elegant rather than windswept.
Fast forward to today and it's trending again thanks to a surge in scarf-wearing influencers and a desire by many women to curate a more sophisticated aesthetic.
Perhaps the greatest surprise many women have encountered with silk scarves is their incredible versatility.
A silk scarf works because it can be worn in countless different ways, and with a wide range of hairstyles and outfits. Whether it is tying it as a traditional head scarf, as a scarf bandeau top or tied around your neck, wearing a Como silk scarf is one of the easiest ways to glamorise your outfit.
Best of all, though, is that once you understand the technique, it takes literally forty seconds to style.
The headband
The simplest method and the one with the lowest risk of going wrong. Take the Laglio twilly unrolled and place it across the top of the head from ear to ear, with the midpoint at the front hairline.
Bring both ends to the back of the head, cross once at the nape, and tie in a flat knot low at the base of the skull rather than at the crown. The knot needs to sit at the nape specifically, because a knot at the crown reads as an afterthought and creates bulk that is visible from the front.
Because the twilly is already 5cm wide with no folding required, it sits as a precise, narrow band of colour rather than the thicker result a folded square produces.
For a square scarf in this position, fold the 70x70cm diagonally into a triangle, then fold again from the long edge into a band of approximately 4 to 5cm wide before placing across the head and tying at the nape.
The classic headscarf tied at the nape
This is the method most associated with the 1960s Italian silk scarf aesthetic, and it works as well now as it did then because the geometry is elegant and the result requires minimal adjustment once tied.
For this style, you are going to want to use a traditional silk scarf, from 70x70cm upwards. Otherwise you are going to struggle to stretch the scarf around your head.
Start by laying the silk scarf flat. Fold diagonally in half to form a triangle. Place the triangle over the top of the head with the long edge at the forehead and the point hanging at the back.
Bring both ends to the nape and tie in a flat knot below the point of the triangle, leaving the point to hang freely at the back of the neck.
This is the version for a weekend in the country, a day on the water or anywhere the dress code is smart casual.
The turban wrap
Fold your silk scarf diagonally into a triangle. Place the long edge across the forehead with the point of the triangle at the back of the head.
Bring both ends to the front, cross them at the forehead, then take them back to the nape and tie once. Tuck the point of the triangle at the back underneath the wrapped section at the nape to secure it.
The turban requires commitment. It covers the hair completely, it makes a statement, and it works for an evening occasion when the rest of the outfit is equally considered.
The half-up bow
Take a section of hair from the front and sides and hold it loosely at the back. Take the twilly unrolled and tie it around the gathered section in a bow, leaving both bow loops at approximately 4 to 5cm and the tails at a similar length.
The bow should sit flat against the head rather than standing away from it. A flat bow reads as a deliberate styling choice. A large standing bow reads as something else entirely, and the difference between the two is simply how tightly the loops are pinched when tying.
The ponytail tie with hanging sections
Tie the hair in a ponytail as normal. Take your silk scarf, fold it into a band and drape it over the ponytail at the base so the midpoint sits on top, with both ends hanging down on either side.
Tie once loosely underneath the ponytail, just tight enough to hold the position, then leave both ends falling freely alongside the hair. The two trailing sections of silk move with the ponytail as you move, which is the specific detail that makes this look intentional rather than improvised.
Why silk specifically works better than other fabrics on hair
Synthetic head scarves, including the polyester satin versions marketed extensively as hair care products, do not share silk's surface properties.
Polyester generates static that causes frizz and its surface produces more friction against the hair cuticle than silk does, which over time contributes to breakage, particularly at the hairline and crown.
Silk's protein fibre is chemically similar to hair keratin, which is why it moves against hair without the micro-abrasion that synthetic fibres produce. It also does not absorb moisture from the hair the way cotton does.
These are the measurable reasons why silk specifically performs better as a head scarf material, and they apply whether you are wearing it for an afternoon or sleeping in it overnight.
Oliver Harry is the founder of Ghini Como, a luxury scarf brand that sources its silk entirely from the Province of Como, Italy. He lives in Argegno on the western shore of Lake Como.
